| TV sources disappear after account sign-in | Do not remove and re-add the sources. Older builds could leave locally added guest sources attached to the guest household while the new account profile looked in a different household; the channels often remained visible until restart even though Settings showed no sources. Current builds move the household and its source ownership together before completing sign-in, and repair an interrupted move on the next launch. Choose Keep guest profiles when asked. If the account was already affected and the sources do not return after updating and signing in once, contact support before clearing app data so the intact rows can be recovered safely. |
| Only one TV plays, or playback shows HTTP 458 | Stop playback on the other TV, wait a moment, then retry. TiviGlass closes its live connection when it is sent to the background so it does not keep occupying a provider slot. If the TVs have separate provider logins, open Settings → TV sources on each TV and confirm the intended source is selected; using the same server address is fine when the usernames are different. HTTP 458 is a non-standard provider refusal and usually means the provider still considers that particular line in use. TiviGlass retries one clean handoff, then stops rather than hammering the line or switching to a backup address that shares the same account limit. |
| Adding a playlist says it is not a channel list | You have pointed TiviGlass at the wrong thing, and it stopped rather than importing it. The four common cases: a web page (a provider whose line has expired often serves its login or “account suspended” page with an otherwise normal response), a guide file (XMLTV guides are usually called something like guide.xml or epg.xml.gz and sit right next to the playlist — that one belongs in the EPG URL box, not the playlist box), a JSON response copied from a panel, or an .m3u8 stream link, which is a single channel’s video rather than a list of channels. Check the address or pick the other file. Your existing channels, favourites and history are untouched — a refused import never replaces what you already have. |
| No channels at all | Check the source is still connected in Settings → TV sources, then press Update on that source’s own row (how-to 2c) — if it comes back empty it will tell you why, such as a rejected login or an expired subscription. Update All does the same for every source. If the profile you’re using has source restrictions, check those too. |
| Channel won’t play | First, does it affect one channel or all of them? That single question splits two completely different faults, and getting it the wrong way round wastes the most time.
Just one channel: try Switch source in the player, then set the Video decoder to Bundled FFmpeg to see whether it’s a codec problem. TiviGlass retries a channel that won’t start several times before giving up, and tells you when it has stopped trying — if you see This channel isn’t loading, further waiting won’t help; press Back and open it again. Raising Reconnect attempts in Settings → Streaming & reliability makes it keep trying for longer.
Every channel: this is almost never your device, and changing decoder settings will not help. If the error says your provider refused this line, your subscription has expired, been disabled, or you have more devices watching at once than it allows — close the others, then speak to your provider. Note that your provider’s panel can still show the line as “active” while its servers refuse to send video, so “it says active” does not rule this out. Run Self diagnostics (how-to 65) to confirm: it reports the provider’s exact answer. |
| External player is selected but TiviGlass opens | Check Settings → Streaming & reliability → Use external player for: Movies & shows only deliberately keeps live TV and catch-up inside TiviGlass. If the scope already includes live TV, read the message shown by the player. It names an inactive Premium entitlement or says the selected app could not accept that stream; the selection is kept so another compatible stream can still open there. |
| Stuttering or buffering | Press S for the stats overlay. An emptying buffer means the connection; a low frame rate means the device. Set Data Saver to Automatic to protect adaptive streams after repeated stalls, and raise Buffer size for a deeper cushion — on films and shows this helps most, because on live TV nothing can be held further ahead than your provider sends it. Devices with less memory offer fewer Buffer size steps, and the largest step shown is the largest that device can actually hold. On live TV, Try another source on failure also rotates to an available duplicate feed when a stream stalls without returning an error. A single-rendition feed whose bitrate stays above the available connection cannot be made buffer-free by any player. |
| The guide group list is empty or only shows a few choices | Your channels are almost certainly fine. The Live TV sidebar and horizontal pills now show a recovery action whenever hidden-group overlays or group filters remove any provider groups, rather than waiting until the whole list is blank. Press “Restore N hidden groups” (or the pill “N groups hidden · Restore”) to bring hidden choices back. Press “Show N filtered groups” (or “N groups filtered · Show all”) to disable the active filters; if both apply, restore the hidden groups first and the filter action appears next. The same controls live in Settings → Channels & groups. If no recovery action appears and the row is empty, your playlist did not send groups: an M3U list carries them as group-title or #EXTGRP tags and some lists have neither, while an Xtream line means the provider returned no categories — try Update all playlists. Everything still appears under All channels, and you can build your own groups from Custom Groups. |
| The guide is too small, or too crowded | Go to Settings → TV guide. Guide text size makes the channel names, programme titles and times bigger or smaller; Guide row height decides how many channels fit on screen. Both are free, both affect the guide only, and they can be combined — large text with compact rows still works, because a row is always made tall enough for the text size you chose. If you want everything in the app bigger, that is Interface density under Settings → Appearance instead; changing both at once compounds them, so try one first. |
| No guide data | Opening the guide fetches it by itself the first time each session, so give it a moment before doing anything. If your playlist has nothing to download a guide from, it says so in a line above the channels: No guide source for this playlist. Otherwise go to Settings → TV guide, check EPG coverage and add or reorder EPG sources; then open Playlists and choose Update on that provider. For a single wrong channel, use Set EPG channel from its hold-OK menu. |
| Movies or Shows is empty | Give it a couple of minutes first — the library loads itself after you add or switch to a playlist, and the screen says “Loading your movie library…” while it does. On a large provider the first load genuinely takes that long. If it still says No movies yet, press Load movies (or Load shows) on that screen, or use Refresh movies / Refresh shows in Settings → Movies & shows. If it says No movies in this playlist, that playlist simply carries no library — M3U lists and live-only lines often don’t — and your channels and guide are unaffected. |
| Some channels show no programme name | TiviGlass matches your channels to the guide by their provider guide ID first, and by name when that ID is missing or doesn’t line up — so a channel your playlist calls “UK: Sky Sports Main Event HD” still finds a guide that calls it “Sky Sports Main Event”. Run Update on that playlist after adding or reordering an EPG source so the matching runs again. If a channel is still blank, the guide feed itself may carry no schedule for it — that is the provider’s data, not a setting. Where two guide channels have near-identical names TiviGlass deliberately leaves it alone rather than guessing; pick the right one with Set EPG channel. |
| Wrong or missing logos | Change Logo priority in Appearance, or supply your own with a local logo folder (how-to 49). A single channel can be fixed via Channel corrections. |
| Audio out of sync | Settings → Video & audio → Audio delay. If only some channels are affected, try turning Surround sound off. |
| No sound on live channels (movies and shows are fine) | Settings → Video & audio → Surround sound → Off, then restart the channel. Live channels often carry Dolby audio that a stereo-only TV or speaker — including any Bluetooth speaker — can’t play, so the picture runs in silence. For the channel you’re on right now, Fix sound in the player menu does the same thing immediately. TiviGlass also retries supported audio with its bundled software decoder before it ever gives up and keeps the picture playing without sound. Diagnostics reports route problems as Speaker / audio output. |
| A show freezes on the first frame with no sound | The picture stops after a frame or two and seeking just says playback is struggling — usually on films and box sets rather than live channels. Some TVs and receivers report that they accept Dolby audio and then don’t actually play it, and because the picture is timed off the sound, the video stops too. Set Settings → Video & audio → Audio passthrough to Off and start the episode again. You keep surround sound — TiviGlass simply decodes it itself. TiviGlass also detects this on its own and switches over automatically, so it should only ever happen once; if you later connect different equipment, passthrough is tried again. |
| Reminders don’t appear | The countdown shows inside the app, so first check Reminders is on in Settings → Menu & sections. Notifications only matter for reminders that arrive while TiviGlass is closed — see Reminder delivery (how-to 39). |
| Recording fails | Check free space and the Storage cap. For a network share, re-run Test on the SMB settings. Lower Maximum simultaneous recordings if your provider limits connections. |
| A recording is marked Partial | The recording was cut short, usually because the connection or the drive dropped out, or because the TV force-stopped or restarted TiviGlass part-way through. Everything captured up to that point is kept and plays normally; the label just tells you it isn’t the whole programme. If the programme is still on air when you reopen TiviGlass, recording carries on into the same file. Simply leaving the app, or swiping it away, does not cut a recording short; if long recordings keep stopping part-way, exclude TiviGlass from battery optimisation in your TV’s app settings. |
| A recording says Empty or Failed and won’t play | Nothing usable arrived from the provider — the channel refused the recording rather than the recording failing to save, and the red line under the recording says which. By far the most common cause is your IPTV plan’s connection limit: recording opens a second connection, so if you were watching at the time the provider simply refused it. Lower Maximum simultaneous recordings (how-to 37), or record when you’re not watching. Otherwise try the channel in the player first: if it won’t play live, it won’t record either. |
| Selecting a recording does nothing | It has no video in it to play — select it and TiviGlass now tells you why. See the row above. |
| A scheduled timer never ran | Check the top of the Recordings screen: if it warns about exact alarms, allow Alarms & reminders for TiviGlass in your TV’s app settings, or timers can’t start themselves while the app is closed. If long recordings stop part-way through instead, exclude TiviGlass from battery optimisation in the same settings screen. |
| Edges cut off on screen | Settings → Appearance & theme → Overscan correction. |
| Holding Back closes the app, or holding OK opens nothing | Both are the same thing, and it is almost always the remote rather than the app. Check whether you are using your TV’s own remote instead of the one the box came with. Those buttons reach the box over the HDMI cable, which cannot say “still holding” and sends the press again and again instead, so one long press used to arrive as several separate ones: Back walked back through the guide, the menu and finally out of the app, while OK never registered as a hold at all. Current builds recognise this and treat the repeats as one press, so you should not need to change anything. Two things to know: on that remote, two Back presses in quick succession count as one, so leave a short beat between them if you meant both; and the box’s own remote was never affected, so it is a fair comparison if you want to check. If it still happens after updating, assign any spare button to Options for the focused item under Settings → Remote & buttons (how-to 51) and tell support which TV and box you are using. |
| Zapping feels sluggish | Settings → Streaming & reliability → Delay before switching, then surf freely — only the channel you land on is tuned. |
| A Stremio title has no sources | Open Addons on that source (how-to 27c) and confirm at least one stream addon is installed and switched On — Cinemeta supplies catalogues only. Rows marked NEEDS DEBRID need a supported debrid key or Put.io OAuth token saved on the source. |
| A Premium feature is off | Settings → Account & Premium: confirm the plan on the dashboard, then Refresh plan. Entitlement is cached for offline use, so a TV that has been off the network for a long time may need one online check. |
| Two TVs disagree | Cloud sync → Upload this device from the TV that’s right, then Sync now on the other. |
| Favourites, groups or settings have gone missing | Cloud sync → Earlier versions, then pick a snapshot from before it happened. It applies to every TV on the account, and the state you are on now is kept so you can change your mind. |
| A TV never picks up changes from the others | Open Cloud sync on that TV and read the line under Status — it names the reason (signed out, plan expired, can’t reach the server) rather than failing silently. Sync now retries immediately. |
| Groups you hid on the website still show on the TV | Open Playlists → Sync on the TV — that applies website changes immediately. If they still show, check Cloud sync is on there, since that is what carries them. The Manage channels page on the website tells you when a TV last synced. |
| App feels slow or odd after an update | Settings → Storage & reset → Clear database cache. As a last resort, open Advanced in Streaming & reliability and use Reset playback learning. |